E1 - Jamie Brisick - Swapping Waves For Words

Jamie Brisick is a rarity: a former professional surfer who has carved out a successful career as a writer and journalist.

Alex talks to Jamie in his Point Dume home, a hop, skip and jump from Malibu point, where Jamie spent his formative surfing years. On the menu are Henry Miller, Jack Kerouac and Paul Theroux, growing old gracefully (or trying to), dealing with loss, and some news on Becoming Westerly, Jamie’s brilliant exploration of Australian power surfer Peter Drouyn’s gender reassignment to Westerly Windina.